Overcoat Styles You Should Know

Once you’ve built a small rotation of suits and seasonal sport jackets, the next logical step is to invest in an overcoat. Not only does it complete the look, it’s one of the few tailored garments that can serve you almost 6 months a year. Especially in a city with real winters. A proper overcoat should combine function (warmth, durability, weather resistance) with elegance and timeless style.

The beauty of a bespoke overcoat is that it’s a piece that’ll be handcrafted from start to finish. From the pattern being drafted to you, to each detail being designed by you. While the inspiration might come from various places in your life, the piece we make you will be truly one of a kind.

Below, we’ll break down five classic silhouettes you’ll come across when shopping for a custom or made-to-order coat: the Chesterfield, the Double-Breasted Peak Lapel, the Ulster, the Polo Coat, and the Raglan Coat. Each brings its own personality, level of formality, and best-use scenario.

The Chesterfield Overcoat

If you want one coat that can do it all, this is it. The Chesterfield is the minimalist option. It’s single-breasted, knee-length, with a notch lapel, with little-to-no embellishment. Think of it as the overcoat equivalent of a navy suit: a versatile foundation.

Best For: The everyday, but dressy overcoat. Appropriate as office wear, but a nice outing.

Fabric Picks: 500g/sm+ wool or wool/cashmere blend in navy, charcoal, or black.
Why Get It: it wears well over tailoring and never goes out of style.

The Double-Breasted Peak Lapel Overcoat

This is the coat you choose when you want presence. The broad lapels, a strong stance, and that unmistakable double-breasted wrap. It’s elegant, masculine, and a touch more dramatic than a Chesterfield.

Best For: city wear, evening wear, and anyone who enjoys a sartorial edge.
Fabric Picks: Heavier weight wools, wool/cashmere blends, and 100% cashmere for drape and structure.
Why Get It: it frames the chest beautifully and elevates even simple outfits.

The Ulster Coat

If the double-breasted overcoat is sharp and formal, the Ulster is its rugged cousin. It’s got a military history to thank for that. It’s got a double-breasted front, Ulster lapel, patch pockets with flaps, and a half-belt in the back. It’s practical, warm, and built for bad weather—but still refined.

Best For: colder climates and weekend tailoring.
Fabric Picks: heavy tweed or woolen flannel for that classic texture.
Why Get It: it has character, utility, and an old-world charm that pairs perfectly with seasonal suiting.

The Polo Coat

The polo coat is the most relaxed of the tailored overcoats. Originally worn by polo players in the early 1900s, it’s usually camel hair, double-breasted, and belted with turn-back cuffs and generous patch pockets. It’s luxurious, warm, and quietly ostentatious. Its Ralph Lauren model has made waves over the entire sartorial world, and most bespoke tailoring houses have their own version.

Best For: the sartorial dresser who loves texture and softness.
Fabric Picks: camel hair or a camel-toned wool/cashmere blend.
Why Get It: it’s the ideal “statement coat” that still lands in classic menswear territory.

The Raglan Coat

The raglan is the easiest to throw on. The defining feature is its sleeve construction—raglan sleeves run all the way to the collar, giving the shoulder a softer, more relaxed drape. We love making them in a heavier fabric in either a herringbone or houndstooth pattern. It has a bit of a British raincoat heritage, but in with the heavier fabric, it becomes an exceptional everyday topcoat.

Best For: casual tailoring and knitwear, or for men who don’t like structured shoulders.
Fabric Picks: heavier Melton wools, covert cloth, or weather-resistant blends.
Why Get It: comfort, ease of movement, and a slightly more modern silhouette.

Just like suiting, your first overcoat should be versatile—usually a Chesterfield or a classic double-breasted. After that, you can start to build out with more personality pieces like a Polo or Ulster, or something ultra-practical like a Raglan for rainy shoulder-seasons.

The right coat becomes part of your cold-weather identity. Choose well, choose classic, and let the fabric and silhouette do the talking.